The harbor traffic immediately illustrated the role that the city had played for a hundred years - Hong Kong was the gateway to China. The Star Ferries, stuffed to the gunnels, with locals and tourists flew across the water like water bugs weaving between the endless parade of giant freighters carrying resources destined for China and finished goods from China destined to shops around the world. In those days all traffic between Hong Kong, Kowloon, and the New Territories traveled by boat. Stores on top of other stores with apartments above them, and all topped with the most extensive and elaborate neon lights I had ever seen. Broad avenues packed with automobiles and shiny Western stores contrasted the thousands of tiny twisting alleys crammed with every kind of store and workshop imaginable - and everything went upwards.

The energy of the place was palpable, the people amazing, and the fusion of ancient culture and modern (or close to it) technologies took my breath away. WA R N I N G SPOILERS ARE CONTAINED IN THIS BOOKĮver since my first trip to Hong Kong in 1986 I have been fascinated with this small island that both separated and connected two powerful empires.

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